Method of attaching reed-lining to hat-sweats



(No Model.)

J. s. HOSMER. I METHOD OF ATTACHING REED LININGS TO HAT SWEATS. No. 427,995.] Patented May 13,1890.

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JAMES S. HOSMER, OF GLOVERSVILLE, NEW YORK.

METHOD OF ATTACHING REED-LINING TO HAT-SWEATS.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 427,995, dated May 13, 1890.

Application filed September 28, 1889. Serial No. 325,387. (No model.)

To all whom, it may concern:

Be it known that I, JAMES S. HOSMER, of Gloversville, in the county of Fulton and State of New York, have invented a new and use fnl Improvement in the Method of Attaching Reed-Linings to Sweat-l3ands and I do hereby declare that the followingis a full, clear, and exact description of the same.

The improven'ient in the method of forming sweat-leathers for hats and caps hereinafter explained has been invented by me for the purpose of improving the manner of uniting the leather to the attaching-stri p and to give it a neater and more finished appearance, and particularly to give to. the machine-sewing the appearance of handmade work.

In the accompanying drawings, Figure l. is a perspective view of a piece of a sweat-leather and attachingstrip in position to which it is sewed. Fig. 2 is a transverse section of the same. Fig. 3 is a perspective view similar in position to Fig. 1, with the attaching-strip folded under in the position which it occupics when the sweat-leather is attached to the hat or cap. Fig. 4 is a section of the leather and attaching-strip in position last specified in Fig. 3.

In the drawings, A represents the leather, and B the attaching-strip. C is the ordinary cord, which represents the wire or rattan or equivalent material used in place of the cord. The leather is placed in the machine with the face side up. The cord is folded in the attaching-strip and lies snugly within the fold. In

stitching the attachingstrip to the leather the fold of the strip which includes the cord is laid upon the leather, as shown in Figs. 1 and 2, the lap being suiiicient for the left-hand line of zigzag stitching to pass through the attaching-strip close to the inner side of the cord or fold and through the margin of the leather close to the edge thereof. The stitching is performed by means of an ordinary zigzag sewing-machine, alternate stitches passing outside the edge of the leather, but close to it. In the order of sewing, therefore, one stitch passes through the cloth and the leather and the next through the cloth alone, and so on throughout, these stitches alternating regularl y. The zigzag stitches being so placed the attaching-cloth is then folded under, as shown in Figs. 3 and 4., and the cord inclosed bythe cloth is turned bodily on the stitches from the face of the leather over onto the edge, so that the edge of thcleatherabuts or approximately abuts against the aforesaid cord, and only a part of the stitching which passes through the attaching-strip and the leather is exposed to view.

The short lines a in Fig. 3 represent the exposed part of the stitching, and this exactly resembles the hand-stitching and the whole gives a very neat and compact appearance and obviates the necessity of bungling ridges, which wou d be unavoidable if the leather and attaching strip were folded together. Further, the whole construction is very secure and strong. It will therefore be understood from the foregoing description that the lines of stitching are wholly through the attachingstrip with half of the stitching or alternate threads through and half over the edge of the leather. This enables me to turn the cord and attaching-strip bodily on thestitches, as shown in Figs. 3 and l. This is a special feature of my invention by which it may be distinguished from those in which one or both the lines of stitching pass through the leather, or those in which the leather and attaching-strip are folded or duplicated upon themselves.

It will further appear, from what has been above stated and from an inspection of the drawings, that in this construction only two threads are used, and that as the stitching is done on the machine with the face downward the zigzag line of stitching will appear only 011 the under side when the attaching-strip is turned, while on the face the fold in the attaching-strip, being drawn away from the leather against which it lies in the process of stitching, draws that part of each stitch on the face at right angles to the margin, and these exposed parts of every stitch 011 the face (marked (1) appear as entering the folded edge of the attaching-strip directly over the margin and hold this folded edge or bead directly against the edge of the leather. This distinguishes my construction from that shown in the United States patent of Bracher, No. 229,949, granted July 13, 1880, in which a continuous line of loops connecting the stitches lies along the edge of the leather and between it and the bead formed by the folded edge and the attachingstri p.

I claim as my invention- The method hereinbefore described of attaching reed-linings t0 sweat-bands, consisting in laying the attaching-strip containing the reed 0r cord upon the front face of the sweat-band with the beaded edge extending inward from the edge of the band and the reed-linin g projecting over the said edge, their sewing through the band and the strip near the bead and again through the strip and over 

